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Basic Specifications: |
|
| LOA | 27.00' |
| LWL | 21.42' |
| Beam | 8.63' |
| Draft | 3.17' / 6.33' (u/d) |
| Displacement | 7400 lbs. |
| Ballast | 2400 lbs. lead |
| 116 lbs. c/b | |
| Sail Area | 376' (sloop) |
| 394' (yawl) | |
| Bridge Clearance | 38'
(to masthead)
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T27 Production History
| Year | Hull #'s Produced | Comments |
| 1961 | 1-12 | |
| 1962-1963 | 12-49 | |
| 1964 | 50-134 | Early boats had bronze centerboards to hull #_?_ |
| 1965 | 135-195 | |
| 1966 | 196-255 | Flush galley stove added, keel changed from outside to inside lead ballast with an additional 350lbs added, molded dorade boxes |
| 1967 | 256-335 | |
| 1968 | 336-399 | |
| 1969 | 400-461 | |
| 1970 | 462-505 | |
| 1971 | 506-524 | |
| 1972 | No production due to factory fire | |
| 1973 | 525-533 | New Deck - longer cockpit, raised bridge deck, teak interior, small mast section, boom section from round to teardrop and jiffy reefing for main was added |
| 1974 | 534-568 | |
| 1975 | 569-619 | |
| 1976 | 620-648 | |
| 1977 | 649-655 | Retooled deck and house, redesigned interior |
| 1979 | 656-712 | |
| Information found in Tartan 27
Handbook Third Edition - 1991
W.D. Schock Corp. built boats #84, 91–95, 141–145, 171-175, 230,231 234, 251-255, 351 & 352. 1965-68 |
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There are, no doubt, some inaccuracies in this list but it should be approximately correct.
Present Owner's Manual from Tartan, minus sales brochure and drawings
Cockpits
Type I WD Schock Type II Type III
1961-71 1965-68 1973-76 1977-79 T27-2
T27 Interior and Sail Plans
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All wire is 7 x 19 stainless
SPARS:
Mast 6" x 3 3/4" elliptical, 6061 T6 aluminum extrusion with .125" wall, trailing edge flat with internal sail track. Stepped through deck to keep on stainless steel plate. Standing rigging 1 x 9 stainless steel to swaged ends. Mast cap and tangs stainless steel. Aluminum spreaders. Sheave box at mast head containing four sheaves for jib and main halyards. Turnbuckles chromed bronze. #1 top action main and genoa halyard winches. Boom 4 1/2" x 2 3/4" elliptical extrusion employing internal outhaul. Swiveling gooseneck fixed to mast. "Jiffy" reeling hardware included for one reef point. Bale at masthead for future spinnaker halyard installation.
Tuning: The spar should be set in the boat just about vertical. The headstay generally goes in the second hole down in the link plates. As a rule of thumb - if sails are out full - the spar should be vertical; for flatter sails, the spar should be raked aft. Experience with you sails will determine this.
The back stay should be tensioned very tight for sailing to windward (say 1000 lbs.). Leaving the backstay tight will not hurt the boat. If the conventional turnbuckle is adjusted often, it should be replaced annually.
The upper shrouds should be also very snug. Use the main halyard to measure to each side of the boat to be certain that the spar is centered in the boat at the masthead. Adjust the lower shrouds while sailing to windward so the spar is straight athwart ships. Always adjust the leeward side, then tack to check the adjustment. The lowers will end up a little looser than the uppers.
Chocking the Spar: Two rubber wedges are provided for chocking the spar in the partners. Before stepping the mast, remove the teak trim piece on the underside of deck. To chock the spar, pull the spar forward in the partners and insert one wedge centered in the aft end of the partners. Rig a line around the spar as close to the deck as possible, and run it through snatch blocks in the rail on each side and to the cockpit winches. Grind both winches simultaneously to pull the spar aft in the partners and, thus to compress the after wedge. Slide the forward wedge in from the underside. A silicone lubricant may be used to help the wedge slide into position. Release the line tension and re-install the teak trim in the cabin around the spar.